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How to cut and sew an Cheongsam

You will need:

Silk, satin or brocade fabric; fusible interfacing; invisible zipper (refer to your pattern for zipper length); bias tape; 3 rayon braid frog closures.


Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.


Shell Fabric:
1. Stand-up Collar – 2 pieces
2. Back part – 2 pieces
3. Front part – 1 pieces
4. Upper Front part – 1 piece
Fusible Interfacing: Stand-up Collar (1 piece).


The minimum measurements needed (keep the tape loose) are like following:

1)neck circumference
2)shoulder width
3)arm hole size
4)length of arm
5)wrist circumference
6)chest circumference
7)length from low of neck to largest part of chest
8)length from back of neck to waist
9)waist circumference
10)hip circ.
11)length from waist to desired hem line
All measurements must be in centimeters, not inches.


1. Apply fusible interfacing to wrong side of lower Stand-up collar.

2. Sew front bust dart and press it downwards. Sew front/back waist darts and press them towards the center front/ center back.

3. Finish curved (bottom) edge of Upper Front part and curved edge of Front part with bias tape – insert raw edge into folded ready-made bias tape, baste and topstitch at bias.

4. Serge side edges of Upper Front, Front and Back parts, as well armhole edges. Sew shoulder seams; serge allowances; press them backwards.

5. Sew right side seam of Upper Front part and press it open. Sew right side seam stopping at notch for side slit; press seam allowances open.

6. Sew left side seam between the notch for zipper closure and side slit. Press side seam allowances open; press under allowances of side slit. Baste zipper into opening in left side seam. Sew the zipper in. Sew right side seam leaving a slit unstitched.

7. Turn under armhole allowances and topstitch.

8. Sew center back seam. Serge allowances press.

9. Line up pieces of Stand-up Collar face-to-face, baste and stitch at three outer sides. Slash allowances at rounded corners of Stand-up Collar; turn the Collar right side out and press. Sew outer (reinforced piece) Collar into neckline. Turn under neckline allowance of inner Collar, press. Baste inner Collar to the neckline. Stitch in the ditch of neckline seam to attach inner Collar. Edgestitch Stand-up Collar.

9. Measure length of slits to make sure they’re even. Cut the hem to even it out, if necessary. Serge bottom of dress. Finish slit corners – turn hem allowance to the face side, baste and stitch with a vertical seam at slit allowance fold. Turn out the corners to the right side, press. Fuse vertical allowances of side slits to the dress, inserting sheer double-sided fusible tape between layers of shell.

10. Turn under and press hem allowance. Topstitch the hem.

11. Sew frog closures to the garment as per pattern markings.

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